Day 4 (March 15, 2016): Who has the world's worst traffic clog?

The answer to the title of this blog post was driven home to us - quite literally - at 8 AM as we sat in the worst traffic clog we've ever experienced: Port Louis, Mauritius at rush hour.

We decided to get up 6 AM, try to beat the Port Louis morning traffic, see our targeted items in the southwest of the island, and make it back to the north through Port Louis before afternoon rush hour set in. Well, we did rise at 6AM, but still managed to get caught up in the painful traffic reality. What was supposed to be a 50-minute drive turned into a 2-hour drive, despite our early morning efforts.

Anyway, stop #1 was the west coast beach at Flic en Flac, considered perhaps the best on Mauritius. After a pleasant morning walk, we set out in search of a place to eat.  It's certainly not like North America, where bacon-and-egg joints jot every corner.  Finding a breakfast spot took much effort here!  Unfortunately, our only choice was a tired place called Gold Beach Resort, that left a lot to be desired.  (Although the omelette station was decent.)  The older we get, the pickier we are becoming, we commented to each other over breakfast!
 

The beach at Flic en Flac is one of the best in Mauritius.

 

"Flic en Flac" comes from the Dutch meaning "free and fat land".

 

From Flic en Flac, we drove further south along the coast, then turned inland, into the mountains.  Our tiny car really struggled on the windy switchbacks, as we ascended into the Black River Gorges National Park.  The views, however, were magnificent. We stopped at several viewing locations to see the mountains, valleys and waterfalls. The photos below show a sampling.

The coastal view from lofty Chamarel

Mountain peak at Black River, just outside the National Park boundary.

Waterfall at Black River Gorges National Park

 

Expansive valley view at Black River Gorges National Park

 

Once out of the National Park, we came to a place called "Grand Bassin", which is a crater lake situated in a mountain area, deep in the heart of Mauritius. The site has many statues, two of which are massive (see one below).  There is also a temple dedicated to Shiva and other Indian gods.  Maha Shivaratree is celebrated every year and the Hindus from Mauritius make a pilgrimage  in bare feet from their homes to the sacred lake.  Hinduism is a major religion in Mauritius, representing approximately 48.5% of the total population.

Hindu statue at Grand Bassin

By 12:30pm, we were back in Port Louis.  But this time, without having to battle traffic!  It was like night and day.  We found our way to the rejuvenated and trendy waterfront and had lunch at a waterfront café.
 

Lunch at the Caudan Waterfront, Port Louis' upscale effort to renew its scuzzy port area

Every day brings occasional sights of interest along the journey. Here are a few random items that caught our attention today.

Roadside berry pickers were a-plenty.

Wish I could do that!

Sugar cane fields are very prevalent. Sugarcane is cultivated on 72 000 hectares, representing 85% of the arable land in Mauritius. On average, 600 000 tonnes sugar is produced annually with most of the sugar being exported to the European Union.

By 2:30pm, we were back at the hotel to spend the rest of the afternoon by the pool and beach. We did some snorkeling off the jetty, enjoyed cappuccinos as the sun set, and packed it in at 6:30 PM. 

Sunset cappuccinos by the beach -- our new tradition. (If two days constitutes a tradition?!)

A sunset fisher-guy near our hotel

 

For dinner, we drove half an hour further north to Grande Baie, to the Sunset Café on the marina there.  Grande Baie, which we will explore more tomorrow, is a large tourist resort area.  We had read about the Sunset Café on TripAdvisor, and thoroughly enjoyed their gourmet pizzas and gelato.

The drive to and from, however, was a white-knuckle experience.  I know I've been complaining a great deal in this blog about the Mauritian traffic.  Picture stray dogs roaming the pitch-black streets, pedestrians everywhere, bicycles with no reflectors or lights, motorcylces weaving, crazy drivers - and all that while driving on the left-hand side.  And all that with an exaggeration factor of zero!  Suffice it to say, every time I make it back to the hotel in one piece, I thank the Good Lord above.

It was a long day filled with lots of behind-the-wheel time, but a rich day of seeing the sights of this island country.  Struggling to keep my eyes open as I write, so I bid you good night from the District of Pamplemousse (meaning 'grapefruit'), Mauritius!

 

How hotel maids get so creative with towels is just beyond me!